Trees You Wish You Had Planted

Spring is just about here and I'm one of those people who like different, unusual plants. I do not want to have what everyone else has. I think many of us are like that. 

The best estimate for the number of tree species in the world is 23,000 to 25,000. That means that we have more to choose from than just maples, redbuds, oaks, or Leyland cypresses.

I will be the first to admit that some of the trees I’m recommending will not be easy to find, nor will you have the choice of a 3” caliper tree. Many times you will have one option and that is a stick.  Let me enlighten you about sticks.

There is plenty of research that finds a smaller tree will establish faster (and less transplant shock) and grow faster in the first several years after planting than a large caliper tree.  Often, a tree planted when 24-36” tall will outgrow the same species tree planted as a much larger 2” caliper transplant and actually be larger in 5-10 years.

Also, please don’t settle for whatever the garden center or nursery has on site. Many times they can order the plant you want. Ask them to do it for you so they know you are not satisfied with what they have in stock.

The following is a list of some uncommon, small, tough landscape trees for around your home. This is certainly not an exhaustive list but these are some really interesting trees.

1. Trident maple (Acer buergerianum) -- 20-30' tall, rounded form, fall color yellow-red, unique leaf shape, tolerant of heat, compacted soils, and pH, exfoliating bark
2. Hedge maple (Acer campestre) -- 25-35' tall, rounded form, yellow fall color, ornamental seedpods, tolderant of drought, heat, compacted soils, and pH
3. Paperbark maple (Acer griseum) -- 20-30' tall, rounded form, red fall color, exfoliating cinnamon-colored bark, trifoliate leaves, grows better in good soils
4. Speckled alder (Alnus rugosa) -- 20-25' tall, upright form, minimal fall color, has ability to dry out wet areas, tolerates poor soils, fast-growing
5. Serviceberry (Amelachier spp.) -- 15-25' tall, upright form, red-yellow-orange fall color, blooms early, edible fruit, pH-tolerant, some good selections are 'Autumn Brilliance' and 'Lustre'
6. Devil's Walking Stick (Aralia spinosa) -- 10-20' tall, open and upright form, yellow fall color, tolerates heat and dry shade, suckering, has spines, compound leaves, lends tropical look
7. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) -- 15-20' tall, pyramidal (in full sun), yellow fall color, can be difficult to transplant, no fruit if only one tree, tropical-looking
8. Sweet birch (Betula lenta) -- to 40' tall, upright form, great yellow fall color, reddish-brown papery bark, bruised stems emit wintergreen aroma
9. American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) -- 20-30' tall, rounded, irregular form, red-orange-yellow fall color, fluted bark looks like rippled muscles, tolerant of wet soils and pH
10. Katsuratree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) -- to 50' tall, upright, rounded form, yellow fall color, heart-shaped foliage, weeping form 'Amazing Grace' only 30' tall, fall leaves smell like cotton candy
11. Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) -- 20-25' tall, rounded form, no fall color, very attractive redish, exfoliating bark, compound leaves, dull white, pea-like flower in summer
12. Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica) -- 20-30' tall, upright oval form, yellow-red fall color, exfoliating bark, unusual early spring blooms, pH tolerant, best upright form 'Jennifer Teates'
13. Lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana) -- 30' tall. upright oval form, evergreen, exfoliating bark, often multi-trunked, drought and pH tolerant, 'Silver Ghost'
14. Dragon's Eye Pine (Pinus densiflora) -- 20' tall, irregular form ,evergreen, variegated needles with 1-2 yellow bands, slow-growing

December's 25 Days of Superior Trees, Shrubs, and Perennials

People love lists. I love lists. So when December 1st rolled around, I made a decision to put together a list of trees, shrubs, and perennials for each of the days leading up to Christmas.  So here you go:

1.  Weeping Norway spruce – living waterfall, yr-round interest, up to 15' tall 
2.  Miyabe maple – small (up to 40’) tree, dense shade, yellow fall color, fruit produced in fall 
3. Winterberry holly – deciduous holly, needs male pollinator, up to 15’, bees
4.  Arrowwood viburnum – durable, adaptable, blue or black fruit, 6 to 15’ tall
5. Weeping katsura – up to 25’ tall, Asian tree, redbud-like leaves, full sun to part-shade
6.  ‘Rozanne’ Geranium – cranesbill geranium, makes 18” mound, purple-blue blooms June to frost
7. Trident maple -- up to 35’ tall, tolerates everything you can throw at it, red/yellow fall color, exfoliating bark
8. Weeping beech – up to 60’ tall, smooth bark, interesting form, esp winter, 
9. Buttonbush – native, leggy shrub up to 10-15’ tall, bloom is curious, white and round, attracts pollinators & butterflies 
10. ‘Fireworks’ goldenrod – clump-forming, non-invasive goldenrod, 3-4’ tall, attracts pollinators 
11. Persian ironwood – nice, small tree, very attractive bark, yellow/orange/red fall color, red late-winter blooms
12. Fothergilla – magnificent shrub, early white bloom, cultivars give reliable orange/red/yellow fall color, blue-green leaves, ‘Mt Airy’
13. Sweet birch – native, 40-55’ tall, best fall color (yellow) of all birches, attractive, dark, shiny, bark, bruised stems emit wintergreen odor 
14. Blazingstar – there are several and they are native, reliable, summer-blooming perennials that pollinators adore. 
15. Butterflyweed or swamp milkweed – for the monarchs, these 2 are the showiest and least invasive 
16. Green Panda Bamboo – not invasive, 6-8’ tall and equal width, protect from pm sun, used as single plant or hedge. 
17. Kentucky coffeetree – native, KY Heritage Tree, large tree, suckers from root, male selections (no pods), dappled shade. 
18. Blackgum – native, red fall color, 30-50’ tall, blue-black berries, glossy foliage, v.good honey tree  
19. Purple Beautyberry – small shrub up to 5’ tall, most graceful of the beautyberries, metallic purple berries, also a white-berried selection. 
20. Bottlebrush buckeye – part-shade to sun, suckering shrub, excellent foliage and flowers (white spikes), 10’ tall  
21. Paperbark maple – trifoliate-leaved, cinnamon-brown exfoliating bark, orange-red fall color, 20-30’tall  
22. Nordman fir – heat-tolerant, well-drained soils, 40-60’ tall, soft needles, conical evergreen, weeping & prostrate forms  
23. Baptisia – white, purple, and yellow forms, some cultivars, perennial with 4 season appeal, handsome foliage, flowers, seedpods  
24. Burkwood viburnum -- superior selection ‘Mohawk’, ornamental red flower buds precede fragrant white flowers, 7’tall and wide 
25. Fringetree – small, native tree 15-20’ tall, white fragrant blooms, unrivaled when in full bloom, blue berries  

These plants were featured on my Twitter feed @hortagentbeth and facebook page.

Fothergilla -- Weird Name But Outstanding Plants

Fothergilla was actually named after a Quaker physician named John Fothergill. It is a member of the witch hazel family and includes 2 species, Fothergilla gardenii and F. major.

The genus has lived in obscurity despite the efforts of plantsmen like Michael Dirr and Harrison Flint.  However, once hybrids of the 2 species were created, fothergilla finally got some attention.

Fothergilla gardenii, dwarf fothergilla, is native to the coastal plains of North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and the Florida panhandle. It is low-growing (2-3' tall) and will sucker to an equal spread.

Leaves are blue-green. Blooms come in early spring before the leaves unfold. Bottlebrush-like flowers are white and have a honey scent. Fall color can be quite vibrant but will vary from plant to plant.

F. gardenii will not do well in alkaline, heavy soils. It does best in acidic conditions, well-drained but continually moist soils. It can be propagated by seed or with softwood cuttings.

Cultivars: 'Appalachia', 'Blue Mist', and 'Jane Platt'

Fothergilla major, large or mountain forthergilla, is a highland species native to the mountains of North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama.

F. major is a large, multi-stemmed shrub that can grow 6 to 10' high.  The leaves are large and green.

Blooms typically in a landscape setting emerge at about the same time as F. gardenii. Blooms are larger than F. gardenii. Fall color is more reliably vivid.

F. major is more tolerant of stressful conditions so it is much better adapted to cultivation. It is cold hardy to USDA zone 4 and will tolerate heavier soils. The species can be propagated by softwood cuttings and seed, though seed production is much less than F. gardenii.

Cultivars: 'Arkansas Beauty' and 'Mystic Harbor'.

Fothergilla x intermedia  hybrids were created from crossing F. gardenii and F. major. Propagators selected for compact size, vigor, bloom, and fall color. These hybrids caught on fast in the 1990s when the selection 'Mt Airy' was introduced by Michael Dirr.

These hybrid fothergillas work best for the landscape as they have the best qualities of both parents. 'Mt Airy' is the standard by which all future hybrids will be measured.

'Mt Airy' in bloom in Somerset 4/13

'Mt Airy' fall color in Pulaski Co on 11/8/12

'Mt Airy' fall color in Pulaski Co on 11/14/14

Garlic Planting Time is Now

Garlic is a garden specialty that can be successfully grown in Kentucky. It does take some advance planning. It is a long season, over-wintered crop, with planting best done in the fall months for a bountiful harvest next summer. 

Like flower bulbs, garlic and its close relative, elephant garlic are perennial bulbs. When fall-planted, garlic cloves will root and make limited growth before the first hard freeze. In the early spring, growth resumes, bulbs and eventually seed stalks form, then the tops die down in early summer.

Garlic may be spring planted, but an internal chill requirement must be met for the cloves to properly grow. Thus spring planted garlic should be stored in the refrigerator for at least 8 weeks prior to planting to ensure proper chilling. Fall-planted garlic will obtain its chilling in the soil and has the advantage of gaining fall root growth and earlier maturity. If properly planted, cold temperatures will not hurt garlic. 

Fall-planted garlic should be done by mid-October. Depending on local conditions, too early may lead to too much tender top growth by winter; too late and not enough root development occurs.

Soil requirements for garlic include high organic matter levels and good drainage. A waterlogged soil will cause cloves to rot. Form raised beds if your soil is heavy or poorly drained. Lay out planting rows 15 to 18 inches apart. Separate individual cloves from the main bulb and plant them about 4 to 6 inches apart in the row. The larger cloves of elephant garlic should be set 6 to 9 inches apart. As a general rule, the larger the clove, the larger the bulb will be at harvest. Cloves should be set with tip up, and 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. 

Because garlic is a poor competitor, good weed control is important. Though fall and winter weed problems are minor, spring and early summer weeds can be invasive and should be controlled. Mulch helps provide winter protection and conserves moisture during the summer. 

Only during drought-like conditions should garlic be watered. As bulbs approach maturity avoid any supplemental watering. One or two soluble fertilizer applications in early and mid-spring will help promote vigorous and uniform growth. 

As flower shoots (scapes) form in late spring, be sure to cut them off (hardneck types produce scapes). This helps to increase the bulb size. As an added bonus, garlic scapes are considered a delicacy and can be chopped fresh into salads.

Cloves from 'Music', these should be planted tips up

Garlic scapes on hardneck types

Harvest garlic before the tops completely die down, preferably with 4 to 6 green leaves still attached. Remove excess soil, but do not wash, and lay whole plants on screens or hang in small bunches to dry. Allow it to cure completely in a warm, well-ventilated room, but not in direct sunlight. Watch for rotting bulbs, remove these and increase air circulation if needed using a box fan. Curing will take about 4 to 6 weeks. 

After that, roots and tops can be trimmed, and outer dirty skins can be removed. Store cured garlic in a cool dry place. Remember all garlic varieties taste the same at harvest time, but after curing and a few weeks of storage time, individual variety flavors will come out. 

A few good varieties include 'Music' and 'Bogatyr' (hardneck types). Others include 'Polish' (softneck type). There are many varieties of garlic, and the best sources of planting stock are mail-order and internet specialty seed companies and diverse garden centers.

Harvest time, leaves are beginning to yellow and die

For more information on vegetable crop growing, take a look at University of Kentucky publication Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky

Info gleaned from Illinois Cooperative Extension

Pictures by Beth Wilson, Pulaski County Horticulture Agent 

Tulips!

I am getting extremely fond of bulbs, and why not? They need be planted only once and you get many, many years of returns.

Many of us have experience with tulips and many of our experiences are not that great. Generally what I hear is most of us only get a year's worth of bloom, then they are either weak or non-existent the following year.

However, if you pick the right species of tulip, I think you'll be as happy as gardeners are with daffodils (meaning: pretty dang happy).

Come to a class on tulips here at the Pulaski Co Extension office on October 2 at 6pm. The fee is $15 and if you pre-register, you will get to take home several of  the species tulips.

There are several species of tulips which should be considered for the home landscape in Kentucky.

• Tulipa kaufmanniana  
• T. fosteriana
• T. greigii
• T. clusiana 
• T. sylvestris
• T. praestans 
• T. tarda
• T humilis
• T. bakerii
• and many more! 

Darwin hybrids are big and bold and will last many years in the garden as well.
Here's a link to the University of Kentucky publication HO-80 'Spring, Summer, and Fall Bulbs'

All images from Brent and Becky's Bulbs.

T. kaufmanniana

T. praestans

T. clusiana

End of Summer Classes

     We have several upcoming classes here at the Pulaski County Extension Service.  Call us at (606)679-6361 for more information. Here's what's going on, fees, dates and times.
     Mini-Gardens are Mega-Fun, September 16 at 6pm at the Pulaski County Extension office. Come learn about mini-gardens from Master Gardener Robin Orwin. With mini-gardens you can combine your artistic skills with gardening on a small-scale. This is a make and take class. The fee is $20 and class size is limited to 30 participants. Register and pay before September 10.

     Species Tulips, October 2 at 6pm at the Pulaski County Extension office. Hybrid tulips seem to melt out quickly in Kentucky and not be true perennials.  Learn about species tulips, a much more reliable perennial and take some home to plant this fall. Fee is $15, pre-registration is required. Class size limited to 50 participants. Here's a link to Brent and Becky's tulips

     Perennial Onions, October 14 at 6pm at the Pulaski County Extension office. Come learn about this different group of onions that we can plant in the fall and harvest the following year. You will take home a sample of 3 different onions. Fee is $15, pre-registration is required. Class size limited to 50 participants.

     All Day Blueberry School for Commercial Producers, October 16, 8am to 3:30pm, Pulaski County Extension office. This full day workshop will cover topics such as site selections, blueberry growth and development, nursery production, pruning, insect management, and disease control. Fee is $10 for lunch (can be accepted day off workshop). Free copy of Midwest Blueberry Production Guide for all attendees.

Non-Emerald Ash Borer Ash Problems

    Emerald ash borer (EAB) is eventually going to come and kick some major ash in Pulaski County KY.  However, even without this pest, ashes have their share of problems.  Let's go over a few of the most common.
     Ash/lilac borer -- unlike EAB, these borers tend to infest already stressed ash trees.  Symptoms include tree decline (thinning canopy) and round exit holes.  Pictured here is a pupal case that is often observed on the bark of ash trees.  All borers are hard on trees and will cause thinning of the canopy and general decline.
     Ash anthracnose -- this fungal disease usually hits in cool, moist springs. Brown spots develop on the leaves, leaves will usually fall off, but the tree will regrow a new set of leaves.  This is not good for the tree as it has to have double the energy supply to create a whole new set of leaves. You may see general dieback of the canopy if the tree is infected multiple seasons.

     General decline -- this omnipresent problem is hard for many tree owners to understand. As much as we like to think trees live forever, they don't. Drought, floods, improper pruning, planting too deeply, changing the grade, and trenching near a tree can all cause the tree to be unthrifty and be the start of a downward spiral.



     

Emerald Ash Borer in Pulaski Co

     The emerald ash borer has been trapped in far eastern Pulaski County.  Three individuals were trapped at the Bee Rock Campground near the Rockcastle River.  Just because EAB was confirmed here, it's still hard to know how widespread the critter is.
     Specialists at the University of Kentucky recommend treating high value ash trees.  I would certainly concur. Unfortunately, the best time for treating trees is in the spring. So, for now, not much to do.
     What you can do now is this: read up about the pest and its treatment options: http://www.emeraldashborer.info/files/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf.  Most of us will go with the homeowner option of imidacloprid (Bayer AdvancedTM Tree and Shrub Insect Control or OptrolTM).  If your tree is less than 20 inches in diameter, it can be treated successfully.  It takes 4 to 6 weeks for the pesticide to be taken up and distributed throughout the tree.
     Imidacloprid should be applied in mid-March to late April. The rate is dependent on how large the tree is.  If you need help measuring, please let me know as I have a diameter tape that measures trunk diameter.  This treatment will have to be repeated on an annual basis.
    For more information or questions, please don't hesitate to call the Pulaski County Extension Service at 606-679-6361 or email me at beth.wilson@uky.edu 

Gardening in the Winter? Yep.

     Although 'gardening' is probably not an activity many people think of in the winter, here are some gardening-like things to do while stuck in the doldrums of winter:

DECEMBER

• Always keep a watering can full of water so that the water can be at room temperature. Don't shock your houseplants by watering with cold water.
• When bringing poinsettias from the greenhouse to the car and the car to the house, be sure to protect them from the cold. They do NOT like the cold, not one bit.
• If you have some hollies with berries, prune some to bring inside for decoration
• If you planted a tree this fall, be sure to mulch it.  It's really important.
• Fresh cut Christmas trees last longer and pose less fire hazard if you keep them well-watered while in the house.
• Clay pots that look like this can be soaked in a mixture of 1 gal water: 1 cup bleach: 1 cup vinegar.  Soak them overnight then scrub the crud off.  
• Wash the dust off houseplants.

JANUARY

•  Seed time! Start germination tests on old seeds by wetting a paper towel. Place 10-20 seeds on the wet towel, fold or roll it up and place in a ziplock bag.  Remember to label the bag with seed name, cultivar or variety name, and the date you started the germination test. Place these in ambient temperatures and check weekly (or sooner). Poorly germinating seeds can then be discarded.
• Consider purchasing a heating mat for germinating seeds.  This cuts germination time for many species in half and gets you a jump on things (especially if you run behind like I do).
• For insect pests like mealybugs or whiteflies, you can spray insecticidal soap on houseplants.  Be sure to get very thorough coverage of the insecticide for best results.
• In the event of an ice storm, allow ice to melt off plants if possible.  If ice has broken a limb, go ahead and remove the branch to reduce further injury or tearing of the bark.
•  Check on bulbs that you may have lifted, like dahlias, gladioloas, or cannas. Remove any rotting bulbs.
• Feed the birds.  Black oil sunflower seeds will attract lots of different birds. Clean and refill feeders regularly.

FEBRUARY

• 
  
• Water evergreens if snowfall has been minimal this winter.
• Cut back ornamental grasses before they begin to grow in March.
• Mid-month, sow seeds of peas, larkspur, snapdragons outside now.  To bloom best, they must sprout and do much of their growing well before warm weather arrives.
• If you need to control mites or scale insects, pick a warmish day above freezing to apply a dormant oil spray to your ornamental trees and shrubs.
• Start onion seed during the first week of February, start broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower seeds indoors during the 3rd and 4th week of February.
• Start parsley and thyme seed this month as they take a long time to make a decent-sized transplant. Soak parsley seeds in water for 24 hours prior to planting.
• Collect scion wood from apple and pear trees.  This is also the time to prune those trees. Store scion wood in moist paper towels or newspaper then seal in a plastic bag and put in the refrigerator until grafting time comes. Apples should not be in the same refrigerator as scion wood.
• Fertilize fruit trees.
• Repot rootbound houseplants.  Choose a new container that is only an inch or 2 larger in diameter than the old container.
• Try forcing some cut woody stems like forsythia, pussy willow, pear, quince, crabapple, or cherry. 

Check out the classes and other activities going on at the Pulaski County Cooperative Extension Service office! 

Fall 2013 Master Gardener Program

     Many people have a love for things that grow.  If you have that love as well as a love for community service, then the Master Gardener Program may be right for you.  The program will be held in Pulaski Co this fall 2013.  The fee is $150.  You must fill out a Master Gardener application.  Rough starting dates are early to mid-September through mid-December.  This is the classroom portion of the training.
     After passing a test at the end of the classroom training, participants have 12 months to volunteer 40 hours back to the community.  The Lake Cumberland Master Gardener Association was formed as a way to communicate to members what is going on in the community as well as be a social, friendly place to meet and greet like-minded folds.  They meet monthly except for July and August.
     During the classroom training, program participants learn about botany, soils and fertilizers, entomology, plant pathology, pesticide safety, annuals and perennials, vegetables, woody plants, fruits, turf, organic gardening, and a few other topics.  We meet for 3 hours each week.
     You will receive the Kentucky Master Gardener Manual in a 3-ring binder as well as some supplemental resources. Classes are taught by Kentucky Horticulture Agents and UK Specialists.
     Projects Master Gardeners are involved in include their annual Pulaski County Garden Tour, the Children's Garden at the Pulaski County Public Library, city and county beautification efforts, marketing the program at various events (like Earth Day celebrations), and even writing newsletter articles.  There are many other opportunities as well.
     I hope several of you decide to go through the program.  I think most participants get a lot of gratification from it.  
    If you need more information, come to a meeting about the program on July 25, 2013 at 6pm at the Pulaski County Extension office.  If you cannot make it but still have questions, you can email Beth Wilson or call the office 606-679-6361.

Old Seeds and Jack (you have to read to the end)

This is not a post about doing germination tests on your old flower or vegetable seeds.  This is a story of forgetfulness.

Back in the fall of 2010, I was hiking at the Yahoo Falls area in McCreary Co, KY.  Great place to hike by the way.  I collected some seed from a cucumber magnolia.  I absolutely love our native deciduous magnolias!  I gathered between 15 and 25 seeds.

When I got home, I did the thing that all horticulturists know to do with those temperate woody tree seeds, and that's stratify them.  In order to germinate, these guys have to go through a cool, moist period of a certain length.  Only after that will the seeds germinate.

So, as a good horticulturist, I got my ziplock bag and filled it with moist vermiculite, stuck my seeds in, and crammed them in the back of my fridge.  Never to be looked at until again December of 2012.

That does tend to happen...forgetting what you've stuck in the fridge, especially waaaay in the back.

I found the bag, inspected the contents, and the seeds had indeed germinated in the bag.  That was expected.  I gently tugged the individual plants out. The root systems weren't any longer than maybe 2" and some were nicely branched and white as can be - a healthy root.  The seed case still enclosed the cotyledons.

I didn't have much hope that those cotyledons would be intact. I figured they'd be rotted.  Anyway, I potted up 6 of the most promising little seedlings. I watched them green up (they were little albinos in the bag). I watched them bend toward light sources.  But the seed cases were hanging on and wouldn't release the cotyledons.

Two seedlings a day or 2 on the counter after their 2-year stint in the fridge

 
So, I opened them up by hand. They were a little crispy, somewhat hard.  I messed up one of the plants, tore the whole plum thing off.  But the other 5 look promising.

The most promising seedling, you can see its first true leaves between the cotyledons

Ragged cotyledons on another 2 seedlings, but I have high hopes

The cotyledons aren't terribly pretty, a little ragged.  In two of the 5, I even see very, very small first true leaves!  I feel like a proud mama (who neglected her children for 2 years)!  But I think they're going to be OK. I truly don't know why I even gave them a shot, I normally would have just thrown the bag with the seeds out after being in the fridge that long.

Just goes to show you, when you think you know it all about plants, you don't know jack.

12 New Trees and Shrubs

In honor of 12/12/12 a couple of weeks ago, I'm rounding out my '12 New _____ Plants' to try during 2013 with a list of trees or shrubs.  You can see the other two 12-lists by scrolling down.

12 New or Different Trees or Shrubs to try in 2013

1. Yellowwood -- a spring-flowering, overlooked native plant, yellowwood was featured in the UK College of Ag's AgMag this fall.
2. Cryptomeria (Japanese cedar) -- makes a great screen plus it's different!  Try it!
3. Green Panda Bamboo TM -- a great non-invasive bamboo
4. Buttonbush -- thrives in wet areas but grows very well in non-soppy areas too
5. Goldenraintree -- not my favorite but it's easy and different and not at all a bad plant
6. Lacebark pine -- what's not to like? It's a pine AND it has exfoliating bark.
7. Ginkgo -- get a male cultivar like 'Autumn Gold' but there are others
8. Doublefile Viburnum -- impresses me more and more each time I see one.
9. Chastetree -- interesting compound leaves (remind you of marijuana), provides purple blooms June/July through frost and the bees love it!
10. Japanese zelkova -- this is just a good street tree, very tolerant of urban conditions. In Somerset, these can be seen more around businesses but they lend themselves well to just being in someone's yard as a shade tree.
11. Fothergilla -- I just love these plants. Extremely nice fall color, wonderful spring blooms.
12. Virginia sweetspire -- if you need a plant to fill in an area in 3 to 4 years, with white bottebrush blooms and red fall color, you want this one. 'Little Henry' is a good dwarf selection.

Doublefile viburnum

Dwarf fothergilla

Green Panda bamboo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12 New Annuals

In honor of last week's date of 12/12/12, in this 2nd week, we'll be talking about 12 new annuals/perennials for home landscapes.  Last week I listed 12 fruits and vegetables.

12 New or Different Annuals and Perennials to try in 2013
(A) designates annual, (P) perennial

1. Amaranth -- 'Love Lies Bleeding' is very cool. And if you want some art in the garden, try the very sculptured-looking 'Elephant Head' (A)
2. Hyacinth bean -- need a vine for summer/fall only to block that western sun? Grow this lovely plant with very cool-looking seeds. Even dried pods look good. (A)
3. Black-eyed Susan -- these have been around forever, but they perform! 'Indian Summer' is a good choice, 'Goldilocks' is a double. (P)
4. Zinnias -- these just make me smile, remind me of my grandmother. They are easy and will self-sow somewhat. Butterflies love them. Profusion or Zahara series are recommended. (A)
5. Ornamental peppers -- my fave 'Numex Twilight', but so many others like 'Black Pearl' and the miniature 'Medusa' (A)
6. Sunflowers -- I know they're popular, but try some of the pollenless varieties. And remember to bring them inside so you can admire them. (A)
7. Sun coleus (A)
8. Papyrus -- 'King Tut' or 'Baby Tut' love water and were used at the Children's Garden & here at our office in containers. Brings some interesting texture to the garden. (A)
9. Any Liatris (blazingstar) (P)
10. Any Baptisia (false blue indigo) -- a misnomer now since there are yellow varieties of this (P)
11. Bulbs -- ornamental alliums, daffodils, species tulips, or lilies are recommended (P)
12. Japanese anemone -- these late summer and fall bloomers are overlooked way too much. Team it up with some asters and you've got a great display (P)

You'll notice that some of these are old, really old.  But they're still good.

Elephant Head amaranth

Hyacinth bean

'King Tut' papyrus

Numex Twilight ornamental pepper

Japanese anemone

12/12/12 -- Let's Do 12 New Plants!

On this unique date, let's use it to think about 12 new varieties of vegetables/fruit (today), 12 new varieties of annuals (week of Dec 17), and 12 new types of trees or shrubs (week of Dec 24) for our landscapes.

12 New or Different Vegetables or Fruits to try in 2013

1. Sprouting broccoli
2. Shell beans -- I know that beans are one of the cheapest things in the store, but you can't buy Vermont Cranberry beans or Pawnee shell beans at the grocery.
3. Carrots -- if you think you know what carrots taste like, grow them yourself and be amazed! Try different varieties like 'Purple Haze' or 'Atomic Red'.
4. Popcorn or cornmeal corn (why not?)
5. Eggplant -- there are more uses for eggplant than you think, so try it.  They are beautiful as well, varying shapes and sizes.
6. Snap, snow, or shelling peas -- easy and done by the end of May. Pretty flowers
7. Fall bearing blackberries &/or raspberries -- Prime ARK 45 (black), Caroline or Heritage (rasp). Easy pruning.
8. Snacking peppers -- they're small, colorful, and extremely sweet. Johnny's Seed calls them 'Lunchbox Peppers' 
9. Blueberries -- soil test first but they are super healthy and easy to grow once soil conditions are correct.  New pink varieties like 'Pink Lemonade', 'Tophat' for containers (oh, and you'll need two varieties)
10. Garlic -- so easy, just do it.
11. Cilantro -- either the flat leaf that looks like parsley or try 'Delfino'
12. Corn salad or mache -- this was Thomas Jefferson's favorite green. Grow it and see why.

Mache (from Johnny's Seed)

Pawnee shell bean (from Seeds of Change)

Orient Charm (from Johnny's Seed)